Step 1: Preparation
The first step in the sanding process is preparation. Replace any split or damaged floor boards (ideally with reclaimed wood). If you can’t get reclaimed, use new wood and stain them to match with antique pine stain (see Step 5). Nail down any loose floor boards. Be cautious of any water or electrical pipes hidden underneath the floor. All nails need to be punched down 3–4 mm to ensure they won’t damage the sanding machines. Remove any old staples.
With parquet flooring stick down any loose blocks.
Step 2: Filling floorboard gaps with sliver strips (optional).
If you are filling the gaps with reclaimed pine sliver strips first run a line of D700 glue down each side of the strip then hammer the sliver down as tight as possible. Allow a 1–2 hour drying time then use a sharp chisel to level the sliver as close to the floor as possible. Do not use the sanding machines to level the sliver as it will damage them and the expensive repair costs will be charged to the customer.
Do not use the sanding machines to level the slivers as it will damage them and the expensive repair costs will be charged to the customer.
Step 3. Start the floor sanding process.
On old pine floorboards start the sanding process using a 24 grit course abrasive to level the floor. Start in the bottom left hand corner of the room running with the length of the boards and start sanding to the end of the room. Then sand backwards on the same board to where you started keeping as straight as possible. Next move the belt sander across approx four inches and repeat the process. Once you have sanded from left to right across the room reaching the far side go to the top right corner of the room but face the machine the opposite way and start the sanding process again working across left to right up and down back to where you first started. Keep repeating this process until the floor is level and it looks totally clean. For very uneven floor you can sand the floor at a 45 degree angle instead of running up and down.
Once the floor is level, you start the smoothing out process in the same method going up and down left to right using a 40 and then 80 grit abrasives. For sanding around the first four inches of the floor use the edger sander with the same grits choice as on the belt sander.
For the right angle corners use the Tungsten bladed hand-held corner scraper we sell to give a perfect professional finish. It’s ideal for getting into your right angler corners to remove any old paint, adhesives or bitumen with ease
If you have a hardwood or parquet floor you would generally start with a 40 grit belt depending on the floors condition then a 60 and 80 grit then finish the floor with a Trio fine finishing sander with an 80 and 120 grit to achieve the perfect finish.
Step 4: Gap filling with filler mix (optional).
If you are filling the gaps between the floorboards using a filler mixed with sawdust, use the 80 grit sanding dust from the machine's dust bags. By this stage of the process that will be a clean fine dust which is perfect for gap filling.
Mix up the dust in a 2.5 Litre paint kettle with a wall scraper making sure it’s not mixed up to wet (as it will take a lot longer to dry). Apply between the gaps using a wall scraper. Allow to fully dry then re-sand using the 80 grit abrasive then re-sand one last time, finishing the whole floor with the 120 grit abrasives.
For a parquet block type floor again use the 80 grit dust to screed the whole floor (which will fill any gaps around the blocks).
Once it's dry re-sand the floor using an 80 grit then 120 grit on on the Trio finishing machine.
Step 5: Staining the floor (optional).
If you want to change the colour of the floorboards, professionals first use a specific coloured stain to change the colour of the floor then they seal the floor with a good quality lacquer or hardwax oil. Avoid all-in-one coloured varnish's from DIY stores as they won't have as good a service life as the separate stain primer and lacquer method.
Working across two boards at a time, start at the far side of the room and brush a thin coat of stain onto the boards. Wait a few minutes then wipe off the excess with a clean cotton cloth.
Step 6: Sealing the floor.
Give the floor and skirting boards a good hoover. Whether you have
stained the floors or are keeping them a natural finish seal the floors
with either one coat of Bona Prime Classic primer or Bona Intense
primer if a dark stain has been applied then two or three top coats
of Bona or Pallmann waterbased clear hard wearing lacquer available in
Extra Matt 9% sheen.
Matt 30% sheen.
Silk Matt 50% sheen.
Gloss 90% sheen.
Alternatively you can use two coats of Osmo or Bona Hard wax oils.
The recommended application method is using a combination of a four
inch brush and either a oil or lacquer roller kit. The last job is to use a buffer
machine to remove any grain rising or to fine buff between the sealer coats.
Step 7: Maintenance. To get the best service life from your floors follow our guide.
• Place floor mats or rugs at every door entrance and exit to trap any dirt or grit walked into the house and use protective pads or caps on furniture to avoid scratches and scuffs. Ideally don’t wear shoes indoors.
• Avoid wax, vinegar and 'all-purpose' cleaners, since they dull the floor’s finish.
• Only use a water based, spray buff system to clean your floors. Never wet mop as too much water can make the wood swell up.
• Do not let sand, dirt or grit build up. Vacuum or sweep your floors once every week.
All the products mentioned in the sanding and maintenance guide are available at great prices from our website or at our shop’s trade counter.
Please phone or email us to discuss any part of the sanding process further or to arrange a machine hire.
We believe we have great prices for lacquers, oils, fillers etc but please let us know if you have seen cheaper and we will do our best to beat it.